Thursday, April 30, 2009

Goa: Part 4

There's a terrifying thing in India that no traveler can avoid: the toilet paper situation in public restrooms. It's like finding tissue paper of 24 karat gold on the rare and joyous occasion when it is there. This video shows a toilet in the Goa airport, which you'd think would be maintained more than the average bathroom. You'd think.



And then we strapped ourselves in for our flight home on Kingfisher Airlines, which happens to be a stellar airline. John & I had their trademark promotional "La la la la la ley, yo!" song in our heads for days.

John, this one's for you!

Monday, March 16, 2009

Goa: Part 3

When we said we were going to Goa all advice lead towards a night a Tito's. It's one of the most famous clubs in all of India. The music started out great but went downhill. This is where I discovered that all Indian clubs in the year 2009 play Shakira's "Hips Don't Lie" about once every hour. It's a requirement.

Pay close attention to the guy Jen is dancing with at the window. He was one of the biggest creepers we have ever come across. This mystery stalker man stared at us through the back door window for at least an hour, tapping his foot to the beat that he could apparently hear, until finally Jen mimicked his moves through the glass. It was an epic moment.



The girls being girls at Tito's:



We stayed at suites in the Paradise Beach Village Resort: www.paradisevillage.org

It was just what we wanted: not a huge, generic, overdeveloped resort, while still being large enough and clean, and a 2 minute walk to the beach.

Luckily we were able to enjoy a cooling swim at the hotel pool before we left:

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Goa: Part 2

A couple notes on this video:

1. I did not include a clip of the man on the beach who cleans ears for a living, and presented a photo book of customers "in action" as a promotional device.

2. The last part is taken at the Hungry Horse restaurant where Jon & I ate one night. Every horse poster the owners could get their hands on was on the walls. It didn't matter what it said. Hence the strange poster in the end...

Goa: Part 1

We left for Goa in the South of India on January 30, the next weekend after the Rajasthan trip. In fact, we've been going somewhere nearly every weekend we've been here. Goa was a true relaxing vacation, in an atmosphere that seems like a cross between India and Hawaii.

January 20

I forgot to mention Obama's inauguration. I had video for this but it's gone now so old fashioned words will have to do. On the highly anticipated day, the expats celebrated by going to the single most recognized American company: McDonald's. The thing is, sine so many Indians are vegetarians, and people don't eat beef, the food is very different. It's actually edible. I was a fan of the Maharaja Mac and the Pizza McPuff. They also have french fries that you can put into a bag, shake around with spice and then eat as seasoned fries.

India Mickey D's is not as good as the scrumptious vegetarian food you find elsewhere, but it's not something to fear either.

Outsourced

If you want to get a sense for what India is like, at least from an American perspective, watch the movie Outsourced.

We saw this after a couple weeks in the country - just long enough to be able to appreciate the string of cultural references and have experienced many of them firsthand.

One of my favorite parts is when the American guy is talking to the Indian couple about his relationship back home. He had a girlfriend but wasn't ready to get married. The couple doesn't seem to comprehend this. The woman asks how old he is (early to mid thirties) and she exclaims "My goodness! You're old enough to be a grandfather!"

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Rajasthan Trip: Part 8 - THE FINAL EPISODE!

Jan. 23-36

When I told a co-worker friend who shall remain nameless that I was going to Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, she said "Oh you should get these cookies. They have liquor in them called Bhang. They make you feel funny." Her request was for me to bring back 4 of them.

Liquor cookies huh? Seemed harmless enough. But when I explained the Bhang cookie to my driver and Megan (an American who has lived here for over a year), I was told the truth: these do not contain alcohol but in fact something else.

Did she actually expect me to pass questionable items across state lines? I happen to value my freedom...

Rajasthan Trip: Part 7

Jan. 23-26

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Rajasthan Trip: Part 6

Jan 23-26

Rajasthan Trip: Part 5

Jan 23-36

Riding camels is cool - more regal than horseback since you're higher up. Our camels each had names:

Carla's: Babaloo
Jon's: Bubbles
Megan's: Micheal Jackson (side note: the people of Jaisalmer appear to be big MJ fans, since we came across two things named after him during our two days there. The other was a puppet.)
Jen's: Rockette
Sherry's: couldn't remember but thinks "it had an r and z so something like Ritztec"

But the real fun begins when you race. On the home stretch, we kicked it up a notch and the strong yet graceful athletic prowess of Babaloo left the others in the dust...or should I say sand.

The others thought it strange that while racing I handed the remainder of my 40 to Tak, my 9 year old guide. But Tak was too busy as a winning jockey to think about underage drinking, and I couldn't bear to litter in the beauty of the desert.

Plus I wanted to finish my beer.



The card game I taught the child guides was war. I thought this was a good game, but apparently they thought it was easy. Tough crowd. Still, I got them smiling.

Rajasthan Trip: Part 4

Jan 23-26



From the Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur, aptly nicknamed "The Blue City" from it's views from above:





Rajasthan Trip: Part 3

Jan 23-26

Our hotel in Jodhpur was the Pal Havelli - absolutely charming and right in the action.



When we left the hotel for the first time, we were picked up by our driver in a van clarly marked "Tourist." Perfect, as if we didn't stand out enough.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

The Novotel..."Not Our Hotel"

The Novotel is one of the top 3 hotels in Hyderabad. They have this amazing Sunday brunch buffet that includes a huge array of tasty Indian food, fish, pasta, Chinese food, desserts, salad, beer, wine, lobster...the list goes on.

People Following Cars

I was wondering why walking past people seemed so difficult here until Jon made an observation. We Americans are used to driving on the right side of the road, while Indians drive Brit-style on the left. The norm on foot must follow the norm on the road. People kept trying to pass me on my right, resulting in near collisions half the time. An easy way to think of going by someone is "the right way is on the left."

Friday, February 13, 2009

Our First Taste of Nightlife

Elsa's Puppies

When I found out Ruthu's neighbor's dog just had puppies, I couldn't refuse her idea to walk across the street and meet them. Yellow lab Elsa is the mom, named after the dog in the book Born Free, which I got a kick out of because when I was little we had a yellow lab named Elsa. The proud dog had 7 adorable all-female puppies on Dec. 23. So at three weeks old, the puppies were about the size of a Nerf football. Dad is a black lab, and had to be separated from the others behind a gate. Judging by the way he barked at us I think that was a good call.

Ruthu, Lakshmi and I stayed there well after dark, enthralled. It took all my will power to not hide one under my shirt and take her home.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Paan & Fortune Telling

There's a wonderful restaurant in Hyderabad called Paradise which has become so famous that the area around it is also called Paradise. After a scrumptious lunch there with Ruthu and Lakshmi, I tried paan for the first time.



The fortune teller, clearly stoked, let the parrot out of the cage so that it could choose a card for me. The card showed Lord Venkateshwara, a form of Lord Vishnu who is The Protector. My clairvoyant guide said a few interesting things in Hindi that my companions had to translate for me:

- My bad times are over and my good times are beginning
- Whatever I want to do will be a success
- Whatever I have in my heart I speak
- I will have 3 kids, two boys and one girl
- I will live to be 95

Ok, so it was pretty generic. What can you expect for the price of 50 rupees (about $1)? I thanked him, gave the parrot a thumbs up for picking a winner, and exclaimed, "Let the good times begin!"

Street Food

"Don't eat the street food!"

That's the most popular warning you'll get when you go to India. Here's some peanuts made into a chaat that look tasty, but I heeded the advice and just looked instead.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

The Fabric Mall

I went with Ruthu, Lakshmi, and Ruthu's mom to a narrow, crowded street that is full of fabric stores - kind of like a fabric mall. Many people opt to buy material for a sari (cloth wrapped around the body) and lehenga (skirt & top set) and have them custom made, especially since it's so cheap. The materials are beautiful, and the options overwhelming. I bought two fabrics, one suede-like moss green one for a skirt and another burgundy and gold one for a pillowcase.



I've been wearing western clothing, and haven't gotten any strange looks or remarks. I'm white, so strangers are going to stare no matter what. But I did buy a top from Fab India and an Indian-style skirt from Globus, two popular local stores. In the office, there's a wide range of attire, with most women wearing pants and a kurti (like a tunic, usually embroidered) and men wearing khakis & button-down shirts or jeans and t-shirts.

One thing that you notice in India is all the wonderful color that people wear. It's rare to see Indian clothing in a color like black, gray or white. This means that half of the limited supply of clothing I brought makes me stand out even more as a foreigner. Note for next time. The array of bold, bright colors is certainly something to appreciate while I can.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

India Traffic

We get some great perks living here through Google. Laundry is done daily Monday through Friday. Basic food items, bottled water and beer are continually stocked for us. And one of my favorite things about living here is that drivers are available all day for the company expats. Here's me with one of our drivers, Sadiq. This is a pretty typical view of the street. Normally you'd encounter at least one beggar along the way, tapping on your window repeatedly. People run in front of cars, and honking a never-ending obnoxious symphony. But it's a small price to pay for free on-demand transportation.

Monday, February 2, 2009

Jayabheri Dinner Menu

One perk is that the Google U.S. expats have dinner prepared for us each night except Sunday. It happens to be inside Jon's apartment, I guess because he has the largest one. A guy named Shyam who we've never met emails the menu to us each day. There are always vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. India caters to veg diets way better than America. Airplanes have veggie meals as a main option, and even McDonald's has more non-meat items than meat. And no beef, because cows are sacred. "Holy Cow" takes on a new meaning.

There's also always a theme to each dinner: either Mexican, Chinese, Continental, Italian, or Indian. It's a nice variety, but these food types should be in quotes because it's usually a blend of something and Indian anyway. The food is tasty. But what I enjoy even more than the food is the description of the food. There have been some great phrases and misspellings. Here are my favorites, with key parts bolded:

INTERESTING SPELLINGS

American chopsy : Fried noodles with tomato,capsicum, onion, beans stir fried with spicy schezwan sauce.

Okra in tomatoes : Shallow fried ladies finger sauteed in tomato concassee, garnished with grated cheese.

Chicken Manchurian: Born less chicken Fried in flour batter then stir fried with spicy Manchurian sauces.

Paratha : Indian bread, whole wheat floor rolled in to bread & shallow fried on hot plate.

Grilled Chicken with oyster sauce : Boneless chicken pieces marinated with muster paste, grilled & cooked in oyster sauce.

Fish n chips : Boneless fish, coated with seasoned egg batter with corn flaks & oats breadcrumb , deep fried & served with toter sauce.

Veg Au gratin : Blended Vegetables with white sauce finished with grated Cheese baked in salamander. (I hope this one was a misprint!)


JUSTIFICATIONS

Shyam doesn't just want to let you know what they're cooking, but why they did things a certain way.

Boiled vegetables : Farm fresh vegetables perfectly boiled to retain natural nutrients, served without any seasonings.

Steamed Vegetables : Assorted vegetable boiled to add natural food to the menu.

Corn Florentine : American corn & spinach cooked in white sauce & baked with Parmesan cheese to give the aroma.


INTERESTING WORDING & CONTEXT

Saffron Rice : Soft boiled rice sauteed in butter flavoured with saffron, seasoned to taste.

Green Salad : Assorted vegetables chopped in fancy shapes, served as natural food. (I didn't notice fancy shapes but I'll be more observant next time...)

Chicken Steak : Boneless chicken marinated with mustard paste garlic & herbs, cooked in brown sauce. (They say color is important in cooking, but I don't know if brown sounds very appetizing.)


EXTREME ATTENTION TO DETAIL

Mexican rice : Soft boiled rice sauteed in kidney beans & Chilly flakes, garnished with chopped parsley.


JUST PLAIN CUTE

Grilled chicken in BBQ sauce : Chicken pieces marinated with little spicy seasonings & cooked in pan BBQ sauce.



The meat options are usually both chicken, which gets a bit old. Sometimes the chicken dishes on the same night are even similar. For example...

Non Vegetarian Dishes :
Grilled Chicken :
Boneless chicken marinated grilled with brown sauce flavoured with black pepper sauce.
Chicken with mushroom in black pepper sauce :Boneless chicken marinated grilled with mushroom black pepper sauce & cooked with mushroom sauce


Dessert is almost always cut fruit. Sometimes I think why bother including it on the menu. On January 15 though there was a comma:

Dessert : Cut Fruits,


And actually on three occasions they went nuts and served fruit custard. I requested ice cream last week and tonight we each had a slice from the cold sweet loaf. The guy who prepares our food is adorable. It's always "Yes Madam" or "No Madam" with a smile. Every native Indian does a head bob that means "ok," but we like his fast short one the best.